I don’t think it’s much of a surprise around here for you to know how much I love to paint. Not only is it my favorite most inexpensive way to transform a room, I also thoroughly enjoy it. Like really enjoy painting, lol. For me it’s therapeutic. I love to grab my paint brush, put on a good audio book or podcast, and getting lost with my thoughts. However, I know painting isn’t for everyone, but I also know that having the right kind of tools can help make the job go a whole lot smoother. So today I’m sharing with you my go-to painting tools. These are my tried and true first picks. The tools I reach for every time I go to paint, and I’ve rounded them all up in todays post.
My friend Anne introduced me to these mini rollers years ago. Back in the day when my husband and I were living in our old victorian apartment, pre-kids. Yes, I even loved painting back then, just as much as I do today. My friend and I share this common love, so when she came over to help me paint our apartment one day, shortly after we moved in, she brought with her some new rollers. I will be honest at first I was completely skeptical. How could this tiny roller cover the same amount of wall space as their larger predecessors? Sure enough they did! And because they were much lighter to hold, I could paint longer without having my arm or shoulder get sore. I’ve been buying mini rollers ever since. Every once in awhile when I’m helping someone else paint, I have to use one of the larger size rollers, and I’m reminded all over again when I love these mini rollers. If you haven’t tried them yet, they are a game changer when it comes to painting. For painting smooth walls and/or ceilings a 3/8″ nap or 1/4″ nap works best.
For painting cabinets and doors, my go-to choice for a paint roller is the 4″ Velour 3/16″ nap rollers from Sherwin Williams. If you are painting cabinets or doors with a roller than you want one made out of velour, for the smoothest finish you can get without spraying them. You might have read that when it comes to painting cabinets or doors that spraying them is the best way to go. And while you get a nice smooth finish with a paint sprayer, depending on the room you are working in using a sprayer might not be an option. Availability might also be a factor. Not everybody owns a paint sprayer, and renting them isn’t typically an option either. These velour rollers will give you an ultra smooth finish that looks as though you used a paint sprayer.
One would think that all painters tape would be equal. Trust me when I tell you this – they are NOT! While I don’t typically use painters tape when I paint, there are some scenarios that call for it. And this is not one of those areas you want to fail on you. You are taping off for a reason, and there is nothing I hate more than when paint bleeds through the tape. I have tried multiple different options, and hands down every time without fail the painters tape that proves to be the best is frog tape. Yes it’s a little bit more, but I promise this is not an area you can skimp on. While I use it most if I have a tricky corner to paint, or mostly when I’m painting the trim on stairs. I’ve also used is for special paint projects like painting stripes (more than once!) and it keeps a nice crisp line every time. Other painters tape have failed in this area, but every time I use frog tape it steps up to the challenge.
My favorite is the Purdy 2″ angular brush. Especially with it comes to cutting in.
Hands down my favorite paint brushes to use are Purdy. I’ve tried quite a few out there, and there is a reason these brushes have a reputation in the paint industry. I mentioned above that I hardly ever use tape, and that is because of this paint brush. My favorite size Purdy paint brushes are the 1.5″, 2″, and 2.5″. You can paint just about any area in those sizes, and always make sure you are using an angled brush with you are cutting in paint. It really helps you control not only the amount of paint, but where it goes on the wall as well.
In my early days, I had been known for skipping this step. I used to just fill the hole in with paint, and think you would barely notice it. Wrong! You might be able to get away with that for one tiny hole in the wall, but trust me when you have more than one hole in the wall from nails or screws, or maybe even bigger from trying to rip out said nail or screws (yep – I’ve done that too!) then you need to take a minute and properly fill those holes in, so that your newly painted walls will look their best. I love this stuff because not only does it change color to let you know it’s dry (goes on pink, dries white!). It also dries fast. Now here my when I say this – this lesson took me a while to learn much to my husbands dismay. Sometimes, patching holes or scratches in a wall requires more than one coat. Which means you need to sand your first application, using a 220 grit sandpaper, before applying another one. The finished product should always leave your walls feeling smooth without any bumps or divots when you run your hand over it. I am totally guilty of being impatient when it comes to painting and not taking a minute to prep my walls first. But trust me – it’s that step that is the difference from your walls looking like they were painted by a professional or an amatuer. Learn from my mistakes. Do the prep work. Your spouse will be most appreciative 🙂
When a U.S. client stumbled across these paint rollers in the official-website of G.SB paint tools, he was so excited that bought the lot and spent the next four months of the hiking trip regretting his cumbersome purchase.
They have been used there for the last 100 years or so as an alternative to wallpaper. As an ardent up-cycler he has been using them ever since to bring unloved fabrics and wonky old walls back to life.
He has adapted the traditional roller system for use in fabric printing particularly. There is also a more-simple foam roller for paper and walls.
How it works
The first part is a patterned paint roller, which is a rubber paint roller having a raised pattern embossed on its surface. The second part is an applicator which consists of a frame, a handle, and a special foam feeder roller.
To use the patterned paint roller. You can simply roll the feeder roller into some paint (any paint can work, no special glazes needed), snap on a patterned paint roller and you're ready to roll!
As you roll, the floor of the patterned paint curler alternatives up a thin, uniform layer of paint and deposits it on the wall to print a flawlessly uniform pattern.
You can't run out of paint in the center of the wall due to the fact the foam feeder curler holds sufficient paint to whole three full passes down the wall. The one or two coloration applicator holds ample paint to whole a 10-foot wall. The sample will in no way drip, which it will seem flawlessly uniform throughout the complete wall.
Decorative painting with k brand patterned paint roller is easier than it looks. You don't need artistic skill, and you can do it even if you can't draw a straight line! Just begin in any corner of the room using the corner as your guide. Each pass becomes your guide for the next pass.
Allow the passes to overlap slightly - this eliminates the appearance of seams - and watch the pattern unfold before your eyes almost like magic! There is no need for any measuring, plumb lines or chalk lines because with our Laser Pattern Alignment Guide, you can always keep the pattern perfectly straight.
A strip of masking tape protects the ceiling, and a subtle and very distinctive half-inch border creates an attractive framed-in look. All parts are completely washable and re-usable. So that, you can apply a complete faux-wallpaper look in any room in just one hour.
This could be the smartest decorating investment you will ever make. K brand patterned paint rollers can be re-used with different color combinations as often as you like - they'll never wear out. The money you save in doing your first room will more than pay for the entire investment.
How to use Patterned Paint Rollers step by step
Before you start it's always worth, practicing the technique on a bit of hardboard or a large piece of paper, or on the walls you're intending to roller, before you paint the base color only use with dead flat matte paint with not even.
A hint of vinyl Sheen we recommend you, use old household paints you might have look at the written instructions on google for different paint options on. How to use them ok so before you start, diametrically opposite from each other, and that will help as he moves on the wall to do repeat pattern vary in size to put it into the elongated slop and you need to Eve just slightly put the foam roller into the middle of three holes on the handle bracket.
Make sure it's really dry from the previous use as it's made from high-density foam it can carry a lot of paint rather than using a paint tray pull some paint on-toa flat bit of board. And it's actually easier to work across the board roll it back and forth until it's taken all the paint.
Lay off the excess paint on the foam roller on a bit of paper then add in the design roller to the elongated slopes. Get a full covering of paint on the pattern once you've got the design roller covered with paint lay it off by holding a piece of paper against the wall.
You'll also know if the design is the right way up always work from the top left-hand corner passing from top to the bottom in vertical columns and moving across the wall towards the right-hand side. Use the left side of the wall as a vertical guide hold the applicator at 40-degree angle to the wall and maintain that angle.
Keeping even pressure as you run down the wall as you've gone across you might get little bits of paint here, which is widest mirrors walls. So do clean it up a little bit here. When you get to a corner and they've only got half of the width lays the paper there if you have slight imperfections about the way of you apply did you can go back later and by hand.
Touch up with the paintbrush, and marking your plus, which it will help your repeat path as you move down the wall you wish that one pass with a plus and the next one of the miners working always towards the right you always start on the left top hand corner drop you down the bottom in one continuous move.
Drop down and the next pass you slightly go over the previous one did you go down. And then it's a continuous pattern rather than a series of stripes you can do if you give too much distance there should be sufficient paint for three to four passes down the wall.
Even density of the pattern recharge accordingly and do not try to make the paint go further as the pattern will get paler after the first pass after recharging use slightly less pressure. when applying the roller observing how it compares to the previous pass so they blend seamlessly.
If the paint starts to thin and run out mid pass mark the point on the roller which is in contact with the wall recharge and the return to the roller to the wall, where you left off but remembering to have a slightly less pressure as you start.
Use the same techniques as a wall. Please remember whatever surface you are going to rolling, the furniture always has to be upright. So that, this is a tabletop which has been the upright position chalk it up, which it is quite a nifty we've done here a bit of masking tape just means you can roll it down complete bottom.
And then, ready to go. It's all worked very well apart from this bit you can see where we haven't overlapped so you need to fill in the area you can do this by just painting in dots. This isn't the particularly fine bit of furniture but it's actually very good or demonstrating it was one of those ones when we went to the dump and came back with more than we took.
But it works for this we didn't almost perfect job. So that, we missed that a few sections here which you can retouch with a brush and the grandeur of furniture than this. The detailing lines and adding in different sort of design details, which make it look like a bit more special bit of furniture we found the best paint to use the matte woodwork paint which is water-based delicate hand-washing.
Suggested for fabric printed in this way. We really encourage you to reuse any paint you might already have household paint left over from various decorating projects watered down the paint slightly. It falls off the whisk with the texture of single cream, make sure the chamber of paint swivels freely on the handle.
If you can’t stretch the handle slightly, make sure that the handle has the calibrated side of the chamber facing towards it fill both sides of the chamber with paint in equal quantities. Make sure that they only come 3/4 the way at the central bit.
Put the two small cylinders into the bottom. Make sure they go into the slots properly put the black bar in the V-slots and then the main cylinder at the top-turn the cylinder, which it's flooded with paint that you have the perfect dilution when the roller is at rest and you can start.
And then, through slightly under paint on the roller mark the design roller with the plus and the minus door mech really opposite on the roller, put it into the elongated slots, turn it so the pattern gets a thin covering of paint, pin the fabric to the wall and if you're putting it onto a wall in your house.
It is worth putting newspaper behind the fabric so that painters-bees through, but in the top left corner working from top to bottom. And if you're doing a repeat pattern, start with the plus on the first pass on a second, as you move down the wall and the key is to slightly overlap the previous pass each time.
And then, you'll have a continuous person as you move across the wall. Old linen ones just perfect for upcycling start in the top left corner working down. Repeating pattern, with the plus moving down- as you move across the wall the key to getting a good application is slightly overlapping the previous pass.
Paper & Wall applicator
The foam roller applies a thin layer of paint on to a patterned roller, which then transfers the pattern on to the wall. The gentle, handmade quality of the printing has the feeling of old, forgotten, sun-bleached wallpaper and it particularly suits old walls. The design rollers are interchangeable and reusable.
The Preparation
Walls:
Put a 2-inch width of masking tape along the ceiling where it meets the wall, and also on the top of the skirting. Remove any light switches and socket covers, as you can just roller on over the holes as you pass down the wall.
Before you start on your wall, I really recommend you practice the technique on a bit of hardboard, large pieces of paper, or on the walls you are intending on rolling before they are painted in the base colors. It is especially important if you are planning on doing a repeat pattern. Only use with dead flat matt paint, with not even a hint of vinyl sheen.
Wood:
For wood and furniture, using the paints must be absolutely matt, not eggshell. If the surface is very smooth, you might need to give the surface a slight key with sandpaper to stop the roller slipping. Apply the paint in different directions so that the surface is not too smooth.
Remember the surface being rolled needs to be in the upright position. I recommend choosing pieces of furniture without panel, as its difficult for the roller to get firmly into corners. Finish the painting with a wax of bees.
Paper:
Tape the paper on to a wall or an absolutely upright piece of hardboard and roller in the same way as described for walls.
The System
Before you start, put the design roller into the elongated slots in the handle bracket. It should spin freely, however if the bracket seems a bit too tight, gently pull the arms of the bracket apart to loosen it. Each of the design rollers varies slightly in length.
Put the foam roller into the middle of the three holes in the handle bracket. Make sure it is fully dry from previous use. As it is made from a high-density foam it can carry a lot of paint. Rather than using a paint tray, pour some paint on to a flat piece of board.
Roll the roller back and forth until it has taken up all the paint, and continue to add more paint until you can see the color has moved deep into the foam. Roll it on a piece of newspaper to remove excess surface paint. Now put the design roller into the elongated slots.
Turn it so the pattern is covered with a thin layer of paint. Roll off the excess paint on a piece of paper and you are ready to go! All patterns can be applied in either a repeating pattern, resembling wallpaper, or a non-repeating fashion.
To produce a repeating pattern-mark the roller with a minus near its end at one point, and then halfway around in the same position on the roller mark it with a plus. Start the first pass with the plus mark pointing upward, and the next pass with the minus pointing up, and so on alternating as you move across the wall.
Always start working from the upper left corner, passing from the top to the bottom in vertical columns, and moving across the wall towards the right side. Use the left side of the wall as a vertical guide.
Hold the applicator with the handle at 45 degrees to the wall and maintain that angle, keeping an even pressure, as you run the roller down the wall. Remember to alternate if doing repeat pattern. Allow the next pass to touch and slightly overlap the previous pass, so as to avoid gaps in the pattern.
There should be sufficient paint for 2-3 passes of the more detailed designs, and 4-5 of the simpler designs. To maintain an even density to the pattern, recharge accordingly, and do not try and make the paint go further as the pattern will get paler.
On the first pass after recharging, use slightly less pressure when applying the roller, observing how it compares to the previous pass so that they blend seamlessly. If the paint starts to run out mid pass, mark the point of the roller in contact with the wall, recharge, and return with the roller starting where it left off.
Cleaning
Wash the graph rollers in heat soapy water as quickly as you have completed with them, taking care when doing away with the central dowels. Do now not go away them immersed in water, and let them air dry on a material now not touching something else.
Store them wrapped in an ancient tea-towel, making sure they are no longer squashed. To smooth the foam roller, slip the foam off the dowel, then you can squeeze however now not wring it out below water till the water runs clear. Only reuse when the rollers are utterly dry.
FAQs:
Q: What is paint roller design painting?
Using a technique called wall-printing, it actually prints a wallpaper pattern directly on walls using any latex paint. It looks just like wallpaper, but costs as little as ordinary paint, and lasts twice as long as either!
Q: How does the pattern come down the wall straight?
K brand pattern rollers don’t need to be applied nearly as straight as actual wallpaper! With wallpaper, even the slightest alignment error will be noticed immediately. Because you print only a design directly on the wall, small variations in the alignment of the pattern will be invisible. You do not need to mark off the wall, or use any alignment markers at all.
All you need to do is start in the corner of the room, and simply roll your first vertical pass down the edge of the wall, using the corner as your guide. This is first pass will serve as your guide for the next pass, and so on down the wall. It's all done quickly and easily, without any markers or plumb lines needed. Anyone can do it!
Q: Do i need special paints or glazes, like faux painting?
Of course not. Wall-printing works with any ordinary latex paint. Unlike faux finishing, which is very time consuming and requires a lot of skill and special glazes, wall-printing can be easily done the first time without any experience.
Q: What if the walls are not perfectly plumb?
Unlike wallpaper, where even small errors in placement of the paper can be seen, wall-printing only puts a pattern on the wall, so small differences can't be noticed.
Q: What about rough or textured walls?
The design rollers are flexible enough to fill in rough, textured or uneven walls, including cinder block. Even walls that are too rough to be wallpapered can be beautifully wall-printed. You can even roll the pattern directly into wet plaster to achieve a textured look without any paint at all.
Q: What if I make a mistake on the wall?
That is no problem. Errors are easily touched up or erased with a dab of paint. Wall-printing cannot damage walls.
Q: How does the roller get into corners?
Wall-printing creates its own natural half-inch border. The border is attractive, just like the frame around a picture. It can be seen by looking carefully at some of the pictures in our wall gallery.
Q: Is wall-printing better than wallpaper?
Yes, because it cannot peel or tear, there are no seams, and it never needs to be steamed off. Wall-printing is easily removed by repainting.
Q: How to import Patterned Paint Rollers from China?
Q: What if I have more questions?
Contact us anytime! G.SB paint tools will be more than happy to answer any of your questions.
Attention:
The hopper should not be too full during use, otherwise it will drip. In addition, the printing must be completed from the previous one at a time, otherwise the pattern will be interrupted.
These patterned paint rollers from G.SB Paint Tools Co., Ltd. based in the China, come in a range of different designs and are a really good alternative to wallpaper. Each design roller is reusable and interchangeable, and can be used with either the fabric applicator or the wall & paper applicator. You can use them on walls, perk up old wooden furniture, make reams of wrapping paper and meters of fabric.